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French
- Chris Boiling
- 2024-07-10
Last night, the International Wine Challenge (IWC) named its winemakers of the year. The winners – from France, Spain, Austria and Australia – explained their winemaking philosophies to Canopy.
La Chablisienne’s Estelle Roy was named IWC White Winemaker of the Year following an outstanding performance in this year’s competition. The winery collected 18 medals and all three of the trophies awarded to Chablis.
Estelle crafts wines that showcase the unique characteristics of Chablis. Her dedication, expertise, attention to detail, and passion for winemaking are evident in each bottle.
This is her winemaking philosophy:
“The vinification is the magical moment of the transformation of grapes into wine.
“Crucial steps which allow us to magnify the product of our winegrowers who took care of them for a year.
“Chablis is very interesting because we can bring out the entire aromatic palette of Chardonnay through the different terroirs with winemaking that respects the product to achieve balance and harmony in the wine.
“For me, it is very important to combine respect for traditions with the constant search for improvement and quality.
“Wine is like art, it recalls different flavours, different textures and you feel different emotions when you taste it. It is the most important for me: to share emotions!”
Burgundy producer Edouard Delaunay held onto the prestigious title of IWC Champion Red Wine for its Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2021, while winemaker Laurent Delaunay was named IWC Red Winemaker of the Year. This is the fourth time this title has been awarded to a winemaker from Edouard Delaunay.
With a total of 26 medals and nine trophies gained in 2024, Laurent Delaunay was the most highly awarded producer in this year’s competition.
This is Laurent’s winemaking philosophy:
“With pragmatism and without any pre-established formulae, we adapt our vinification and ageing processes to the potential of each terroir, plot, grape variety and vintage. We do not want our wines to be masked by oak, so we use it judiciously to give the wine just what it needs so that during the ageing process all its potential and expression can shine through. Ageing a great wine requires patient, gentle work.”
Burgenland producer Hans Tschida once again displayed his excellence in sweet winemaking. For the fourth year in a row, the winemaker from Austria’s Weingut Angerhof Tschida has been awarded the IWC Sweet Winemaker of the Year title. Hans has now won this award 10 times since 2010. In this year’s Challenge, his sweet wines received nine gold medals, seven silvers, three bronzes and one coveted trophy.
He told Canopy: “Our philosophy of winemaking revolves around a deep passion for crafting sweet wines to perfection. We are fortunate to be situated in Burgenland’s Seewinkel Illmitz, in a special microclimate characterised by cool nights and warm days, with abundant humidity from the Neusiedlersee and numerous small salt lakes. The slight saltiness from these lakes contributes to a wonderful balance in our wines. We believe in meticulous care for our vineyards and cellar, ensuring that every action is taken at the precise moment to bring out the best in our wines.”
For the first time in IWC history, an Australian producer has been named IWC Sparkling Winemaker of the Year. Ed Carr, head winemaker at Tasmania’s House of Arras, took home this prestigious accolade, marking only the second time it has gone to a producer outside Champagne.
House of Arras’s sparkling wines picked up 12 medals in this year’s Challenge, as well as the Australian Sparkling Trophy for its Blanc de Blancs 2014 – described by judges as “a great example of a sparkler tasting like a really serious wine in its own right with bubbles as an extra”.
Ed told Canopy his aim is “to craft world-class sparkling wines that express the terroir of Tasmania and the winemaking style of the House of Arras.
“The wines must be mature and complex and yet retain an elegant structure and vibrancy of fruit.”
More on Ed’s winemaking philosophy and techniques here.
Sergio Martínez from Emilio Lustau has once again been recognised as the IWC Fortified Winemaker of the Year. He has now won this title six times. In this year’s Challenge, Emilio Lustau won an impressive eight golds, 15 silvers and three bronzes.
As Sergio explained after gaining his fifth consecutive Winemaker of the Year title in 2021, managing the ‘velo de flor’ in the historic cellars of Jerez is one of the most crucial parts of his job.
The flor, Sergio explained, is “like my children, the most delicate thing in the bodega”. To check its condition and the way it’s developing, he constantly tastes wine from casks. In Andalucía’s damper and cooler spring and autumn, it’s easier to manage. In the dry, hot summer and cold winter, it’s “more difficult”.
Managing means opening and closing windows depending on the direction and warmth of the wind, and moistening the sandy floors.
“The flor is very delicate,” Sergio continued.
More so in Jerez de la Frontera than on the coast in Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María. “The flor yeast closer to the coast are stronger, less delicate, more constant than those in Jerez,” he said.
In Jerez, they sprinkle the sandy floor with water at least three times a week in summer. In Sanlúcar and El Puerto, once a week is usually enough.
But caring for the flor complicates other important steps in the production of Sherry. During the saca (extraction) and rocío (refilling) stages – when Sergio and his team add or remove wine from the solera system – they have to do it with “no flor movement”.
This means taking from and adding to the centre of the barrel without disturbing the flor floating on the top or the sediment at the bottom, using slow-speed pumps calibrated at 12-13L per minute that ‘sprinkle’ the new wine out sideways.
Sergio said the other crucial thing regarding Sherry production is maintaining the quality of the solera by always replenishing it with wines of a similar quality.
The IWC Lifetime Achievement Award went to Australian wine critic James Halliday AM, who announced his retirement earlier this year at the age of 85. As James couldn't make the long flight to London from Australia, Oz Clarke read out the acceptance speech, in which Halliday said: “I am deeply moved by the decision of the International Wine Challenge to bestow its 2024 Lifetime Achievement Award on me. I’m also humbled to join a list of international figures who, over many decades, have played innovative and significant roles extending into the four corners of the wine world.”
IWC White Winemaker of the Year 2024
Estelle Roy from La Chablisienne, FranceLa Chablisienne’s Estelle Roy was named IWC White Winemaker of the Year following an outstanding performance in this year’s competition. The winery collected 18 medals and all three of the trophies awarded to Chablis.
Estelle crafts wines that showcase the unique characteristics of Chablis. Her dedication, expertise, attention to detail, and passion for winemaking are evident in each bottle.
This is her winemaking philosophy:
“The vinification is the magical moment of the transformation of grapes into wine.
“Crucial steps which allow us to magnify the product of our winegrowers who took care of them for a year.
“Chablis is very interesting because we can bring out the entire aromatic palette of Chardonnay through the different terroirs with winemaking that respects the product to achieve balance and harmony in the wine.
“For me, it is very important to combine respect for traditions with the constant search for improvement and quality.
“Wine is like art, it recalls different flavours, different textures and you feel different emotions when you taste it. It is the most important for me: to share emotions!”
IWC Red Winemaker of the Year 2024
Laurent Delaunay from Edouard Delaunay, FranceBurgundy producer Edouard Delaunay held onto the prestigious title of IWC Champion Red Wine for its Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2021, while winemaker Laurent Delaunay was named IWC Red Winemaker of the Year. This is the fourth time this title has been awarded to a winemaker from Edouard Delaunay.
With a total of 26 medals and nine trophies gained in 2024, Laurent Delaunay was the most highly awarded producer in this year’s competition.
This is Laurent’s winemaking philosophy:
“With pragmatism and without any pre-established formulae, we adapt our vinification and ageing processes to the potential of each terroir, plot, grape variety and vintage. We do not want our wines to be masked by oak, so we use it judiciously to give the wine just what it needs so that during the ageing process all its potential and expression can shine through. Ageing a great wine requires patient, gentle work.”
‘Ageing a great wine requires patient, gentle work’
IWC Sweet Winemaker of the Year 2024
Hans Tschida from Weingut Angerhof Tschida, AustriaBurgenland producer Hans Tschida once again displayed his excellence in sweet winemaking. For the fourth year in a row, the winemaker from Austria’s Weingut Angerhof Tschida has been awarded the IWC Sweet Winemaker of the Year title. Hans has now won this award 10 times since 2010. In this year’s Challenge, his sweet wines received nine gold medals, seven silvers, three bronzes and one coveted trophy.
He told Canopy: “Our philosophy of winemaking revolves around a deep passion for crafting sweet wines to perfection. We are fortunate to be situated in Burgenland’s Seewinkel Illmitz, in a special microclimate characterised by cool nights and warm days, with abundant humidity from the Neusiedlersee and numerous small salt lakes. The slight saltiness from these lakes contributes to a wonderful balance in our wines. We believe in meticulous care for our vineyards and cellar, ensuring that every action is taken at the precise moment to bring out the best in our wines.”
IWC Sparkling Winemaker of the Year 2024
Ed Carr from House of Arras, AustraliaFor the first time in IWC history, an Australian producer has been named IWC Sparkling Winemaker of the Year. Ed Carr, head winemaker at Tasmania’s House of Arras, took home this prestigious accolade, marking only the second time it has gone to a producer outside Champagne.
House of Arras’s sparkling wines picked up 12 medals in this year’s Challenge, as well as the Australian Sparkling Trophy for its Blanc de Blancs 2014 – described by judges as “a great example of a sparkler tasting like a really serious wine in its own right with bubbles as an extra”.
Ed told Canopy his aim is “to craft world-class sparkling wines that express the terroir of Tasmania and the winemaking style of the House of Arras.
“The wines must be mature and complex and yet retain an elegant structure and vibrancy of fruit.”
More on Ed’s winemaking philosophy and techniques here.
IWC Fortified Winemaker of the Year 2024
Sergio Martínez from Emilio Lustau, SpainSergio Martínez from Emilio Lustau has once again been recognised as the IWC Fortified Winemaker of the Year. He has now won this title six times. In this year’s Challenge, Emilio Lustau won an impressive eight golds, 15 silvers and three bronzes.
As Sergio explained after gaining his fifth consecutive Winemaker of the Year title in 2021, managing the ‘velo de flor’ in the historic cellars of Jerez is one of the most crucial parts of his job.
The flor, Sergio explained, is “like my children, the most delicate thing in the bodega”. To check its condition and the way it’s developing, he constantly tastes wine from casks. In Andalucía’s damper and cooler spring and autumn, it’s easier to manage. In the dry, hot summer and cold winter, it’s “more difficult”.
Managing means opening and closing windows depending on the direction and warmth of the wind, and moistening the sandy floors.
“The flor is very delicate,” Sergio continued.
More so in Jerez de la Frontera than on the coast in Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María. “The flor yeast closer to the coast are stronger, less delicate, more constant than those in Jerez,” he said.
In Jerez, they sprinkle the sandy floor with water at least three times a week in summer. In Sanlúcar and El Puerto, once a week is usually enough.
But caring for the flor complicates other important steps in the production of Sherry. During the saca (extraction) and rocío (refilling) stages – when Sergio and his team add or remove wine from the solera system – they have to do it with “no flor movement”.
This means taking from and adding to the centre of the barrel without disturbing the flor floating on the top or the sediment at the bottom, using slow-speed pumps calibrated at 12-13L per minute that ‘sprinkle’ the new wine out sideways.
Sergio said the other crucial thing regarding Sherry production is maintaining the quality of the solera by always replenishing it with wines of a similar quality.
Honour for Halliday
The IWC Lifetime Achievement Award went to Australian wine critic James Halliday AM, who announced his retirement earlier this year at the age of 85. As James couldn't make the long flight to London from Australia, Oz Clarke read out the acceptance speech, in which Halliday said: “I am deeply moved by the decision of the International Wine Challenge to bestow its 2024 Lifetime Achievement Award on me. I’m also humbled to join a list of international figures who, over many decades, have played innovative and significant roles extending into the four corners of the wine world.”
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